We all know the feeling, curls looking good through the summer. Defined, bouncy and lustrous. Now the weather is getting colder, leaves are changing colors and for some reason your curls are starting to feel drier, the same routine that’s been working for you is suddenly falling short. Nothing changed with your routine but your curls are slowly starting to look frizzier and the same definition that got your curls feeling right all summer is now harder to achieve.
It’s got nothing to do with the products you are using and everything to do with the environment around it. This article explains exactly why it’s happening and what you can do to have your curls beat the cold.
What cold weather actually does to your curls
The two things that change in the winter that have a direct impact on your hair, is humidity and temperature.
Humidity drops: In warm weather air carries more moisture that your hair can absorb. As the weather gets colder it also gets drier, particularly inside where central heating removes moisture from the air making your hair lose moisture faster and stops it from drawing in moisture from the environment.
Temperature affects the curl pattern: Cold air makes hair shafts contract slightly, and makes the curl pattern tighten, reducing definition and making your hair feel stiffer. This is also the reason your curls look smaller and less soft than they did during the summer. Differences in temperature directly affect the physical structure of each hair strand.
Central heating makes it worse: The biggest reason your curls may look worse in the winter months is because you spend more time indoors with the heating on. Central heating creates an environment with very low humidity and because you spend more time indoors when it’s cold outside your curls will lose moisture quicker, that’s why it’s important to change up your routine to better accommodate the change in environment.
These three things explain almost every winter curl complaint: dryness, frizz, reduced definition, brittleness and more extreme shrinkage than usual.
Why humectants can work against you in winter
This is the least talked about issue and changing it will probably have the biggest impact on how your curls look in the cold.
Humectants: ingredients like glycerin, honey and panthenol work by drawing moisture from the air into your hair shaft. When it’s warm and the air is humid, this works great but when the air is cold and dry, humectants have nothing to draw from and can instead pull moisture from your hair into the dry environment.
This is the opposite of what you want and is the reason why the same products that worked great one month can be terrible the next. Same routine, different results, endless frustration.
This doesn’t mean you should cut out products containing humectants entirely, you just need to know how to best layer them for cold weather. The best change is to apply a humectant-rich product to your hair and then quickly sealing it with a hair oil to create a barrier that slows moisture dissipating out in the dry air. If you are spending more time inside around central heating, reduce the concentration of humectants in the products in your routine and instead rely more on emollients and occlusives to retain the moisture already in your hair.
Adjusting your routine for winter
Changing up your routine during the cold months doesn’t mean you need to start from scratch, making a few targeted adjustments to what you’re already doing is much simpler than building a brand new routine.
Add more moisture at every step: In cold weather your hair will lose moisture faster. So, the quickest way to compensate for that is to add more moisture to begin with. That means adding slightly more leave-in, deep conditioning more often (weekly rather than every two weeks) and adding a pre-shampoo treatment (applying oil to dry hair before washing) to your routine, that helps to retain moisture during cleansing.
Seal more thoroughly: During warm weather a light oil applied to your hair after your leave-in is usually enough. In cold weather the seal needs to be stronger. The best method is to layer a lightweight penetrating oil (argan, marula, jojoba) with a slightly heavier sealant on the ends of your curls. Shea butter or castor oil works really well for this and helps keep moisture locked in for longer during dry conditions. The LOC method works well during the winter because it layers moisture creating a barrier that holds up better.
Wash less frequently if you can: Every time you wash your hair you strip some moisture from it, and in the winter your hair needs more time between washes to rebuild its moisture levels. If you’re washing your hair twice a week in the summer, cut it down to once a week during the winter. If you’re already washing your hair once a week during the summer, switching to a gentler co-wash shampoo during cold months can help keep your hair refreshed without stripping your hair of too much moisture.
Protect your hair from the cold outside: covering up your curls can also matter more than people think. Going outside in cold, dry, windy weather with your hair uncovered can lead to faster moisture loss. Protecting your hair with a satin-lined cap, hood or du-rag, will protect it from the weather and prevent friction. Regular caps and hats made from wool or cotton can absorb moisture from your hair, so if you’re wearing a regular hat, put a satin bonnet beneath it to prevent moisture loss.
Refresh more regularly between wash days: It’s important to spend more time on your curls between washes during the winter months, adding a small spritz of water followed by a small amount of leave-in or curl refresher helps reactivate the moisture in your curls and prevents dryness from building up day by day between washes. It doesn’t need to take more than two minutes and will make a real difference in how your hair looks and feels throughout the week
Lower your wash day water temperature: Hot showers are amazing during the winter, but hot water also strips hair of moisture and raises the cuticle, which makes moisture loss worse. Taking warm showers instead of hot ones and finishing with rinsing your hair with cool water can help close the cuticle. This is a simple small change that can help your hair hold onto moisture for longer.
Hard water in winter
If you’re living in northern Europe, hard water is worth factoring into your winter routine. Hard water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium that can accumulate on your hair shaft over time, creating a fine film that prevents products from being properly absorbed by your hair and can leave your curls feeling rough and dull.
During the winter this becomes more noticeable because your hair is already drier than usual and more vulnerable to mineral buildup, which can accumulate over time and make it feel like no matter what technique or product you use your hair just won’t stop feeling dry.
Using a clarifying shampoo once a month can help remove mineral buildup and reset your hair’s ability to absorb moisture. If you don’t use a clarifying shampoo regularly and your winter curls are always looking rough, hard water might be the culprit.
Indoor humidity
One thing that could help your hair during the winter months is to get a humidifier for the room you spend the most time in, such as your bedroom. Humidifiers raise the ambient humidity and slow the pace at which your hair loses moisture while you sleep or go about your day. It also benefits your skin, which can face the same dry air problem in cold weather.
This isn’t essential, but if you’re finding that no matter what adjustments you make to your routine during winter your curls still feel dry. It is a relatively small investment that could make a real difference to how your curls behave in between wash days.
What to expect
Your hair will require more during the winter. More moisture, more sealing, more protection, more frequent refreshing. This is simply how curls behave in cold and dry weather and accommodating it will help your curls look better no matter the season
The adjustment period usually takes one or two wash cycles to dial in. So whenever you change your routine, give it a few weeks and then judge whether it’s working. Curls don’t turn around overnight, and winter conditions can also vary week to week.
Curls don’t look worse in the winter. They just need a little more attention.
Want to build a full routine that works year-round for your curl type? Our free Curly Hair Guide covers everything - read it here.